Mercado 20 de Noviembre
A bustling, sensory-rich market in Oaxaca, famous for its 'Pasillo de Humo' and authentic local cuisine.
Highlights
Must-see attractions

Social
From TikTok & Reddit
Best Time
Fewer crowds, fresh goods
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Best Time
Fewer crowds, fresh goods
Highlights
Must-see attractions
A bustling, sensory-rich market in Oaxaca, famous for its 'Pasillo de Humo' and authentic local cuisine.
"This is the best place for food in Oaxaca."
Carry Cash 💵
Most vendors prefer cash. ATMs are available nearby, but it's best to come prepared.
Ask for Samples 🍴
Don't be shy to ask for a taste before buying, especially at food stalls.
Highlights
Discover the most iconic attractions and experiences
Pasillo de Humo (Smoke Alley)
Central corridor
A smoky, aromatic corridor where vendors grill tasajo, cecina, and chorizo over open coals. A true Oaxacan culinary experience.
Traditional Oaxacan Cuisine
Various food stalls
Savor authentic mole, tlayudas, tamales, and other regional specialties. Many stalls have been family-run for generations.
Local Produce and Goods
Market aisles
Explore vibrant displays of fresh fruits, vegetables, artisanal bread, cheeses, and local crafts. A feast for the eyes.
Chapulines (Grasshoppers)
Snack stalls
Dare to try this crunchy, savory Oaxacan delicacy. Often seasoned with chili and lime, they're a unique local snack.
Plans like a pro.
Thinks like you
Planning Your Visit
Embrace the Bustle
Navigating the Foodie Paradise
Best Times
Insider Tips
from TikTok, Instagram & Reddit
Carry Cash 💵
Most vendors prefer cash. ATMs are available nearby, but it's best to come prepared.
Ask for Samples 🍴
Don't be shy to ask for a taste before buying, especially at food stalls.
Navigate the Smoke Alley 💨
Embrace the smoky aroma of the Pasillo de Humo; it's part of the experience!
Be Prepared for Crowds 🙏
It's a popular spot, so expect it to be busy, especially during peak hours.
Tips
from all over the internet
Carry Cash 💵
Most vendors prefer cash. ATMs are available nearby, but it's best to come prepared.
Ask for Samples 🍴
Don't be shy to ask for a taste before buying, especially at food stalls.
Navigate the Smoke Alley 💨
Embrace the smoky aroma of the Pasillo de Humo; it's part of the experience!
Be Prepared for Crowds 🙏
It's a popular spot, so expect it to be busy, especially during peak hours.
Try the Tasajo 🥩
This grilled beef is a must-try in the Pasillo de Humo.
Sample the Mole 🫔
Oaxaca is famous for its moles; try different varieties from various vendors.
Comfortable Shoes 🥾
You'll be doing a lot of walking and standing, so wear your most comfortable footwear.
What Travellers Say
Reviews Summary
Mercado 20 de Noviembre is a vibrant, bustling market offering an authentic Oaxacan experience, particularly renowned for its 'Pasillo de Humo' and diverse local cuisine. While some visitors find the food stalls pushy, the overwhelming consensus is that it's a must-visit for its delicious food, lively atmosphere, and cultural immersion. Be prepared for crowds, heat, and the need for cash.
"Pretty packed market! Lots of amazing things to browse and purchase.
I found the food stalls to be quite pushy in sales and will always be in your face! Just continue walking if you have this issue.
Lots of tasty treats and don’t be afraid to ask for a try of something! Loved the spicy crickets personally."
Spencer Forsyth
"If you need food, pantry, vegetables, ice cream, cheese, mezcal, chapulines, fruits, etc…
This is the spot! Is a must go if you are visiting Oaxaca, you have to keep in mind to have always cash, it is crowded, it is hot, it is expensive, but is perfect to get the stuff that you need in just a few blocks."
Any BR
"Definitely a must go as tourist!
In the centre of the city so very accessible
The market is clean and well kept.
Has different sections from food to clothes to souvenir to restaurants.
Also had amazing dinner"
Isma Marc
What People Like
What People Dislike
Frequently Asked Questions
🚇 🗺️ Getting There
Mercado 20 de Noviembre is centrally located in Oaxaca City, making it easily accessible. You can walk from many hotels in the historic center, or take a short taxi or local bus ride. It's often visited in conjunction with the adjacent Mercado Benito Juárez.
Yes, it's a very well-known landmark in Oaxaca City. Look for the large covered building and the signs indicating 'Mercado 20 de Noviembre'. It's hard to miss, especially with the aromas wafting out!
Ride-sharing apps like Uber and Didi are generally available in Oaxaca City and can drop you off near the market. However, be aware that traffic around the market can be heavy, especially during peak hours.
Many visitors combine a visit to Mercado 20 de Noviembre with Mercado Benito Juárez, as they are adjacent. Walking between them allows you to experience the full range of local offerings.
Parking can be challenging in the busy city center. If you're driving, look for paid parking lots or street parking, but be prepared for limited availability. It's often easier to rely on public transport or taxis.
🎫 🎫 Tickets & Entry
No, entry to Mercado 20 de Noviembre is free. It's a public market, so you can wander through the aisles and browse without any admission fee.
The market is typically open daily from early morning until late evening. However, specific stall hours can vary, and some may close earlier than others. It's best to visit during daylight hours for the full experience.
To avoid the biggest crowds, try visiting on a weekday morning. Weekends and evenings, especially around dinner time, tend to be the busiest.
Yes, guided food tours are available and can be a great way to discover hidden gems and learn about Oaxacan cuisine from a local expert. Some tours focus specifically on the market experience.
The market can be quite crowded and the aisles can be narrow, which might make navigating with a stroller or wheelchair challenging at times. It's doable, but requires patience.
🍽️ 🍽️ Food & Dining
The 'Pasillo de Humo' (Smoke Alley) is famous for grilled meats like tasajo, cecina, and chorizo. Also, don't miss tlayudas, mole, tamales, tejate (a traditional drink), and chapulines (grasshoppers).
Prices can vary, but it's generally considered affordable for the quality and quantity of food. A meal can range from $100-$300 MXN per person, depending on what you order. Always check the menu prices.
While the market is known for its grilled meats, you can find some vegetarian options like tlayudas with beans and cheese, fresh fruit, and some vegetable-based dishes. It's best to ask vendors about ingredients.
The 'Pasillo de Humo' or Smoke Alley is a central corridor in the market where numerous vendors grill various cuts of meat over open coals, creating a signature smoky atmosphere and aroma.
Absolutely! You'll find vendors selling fresh juices, aguas frescas (like horchata and jamaica), tejate, and even mezcal.
📸 📸 Photography
Yes, the market offers fantastic photographic opportunities with its vibrant colors, bustling activity, and unique food preparations. The 'Pasillo de Humo' with its smoke and grills is particularly photogenic.
Focus on the colorful produce displays, the action in the 'Pasillo de Humo,' close-ups of Oaxacan dishes, local vendors, and the general lively atmosphere of the market.
It's always polite to ask for permission before taking close-up photos of vendors or individuals, especially if they are not actively engaged in serving customers. A smile and a gesture usually suffice.
Morning light can be beautiful for capturing the fresh produce and the market waking up. Evenings offer a different ambiance with artificial lights and the glow of the grills.
Drones are generally not permitted inside public markets due to safety and privacy concerns. It's best to stick to handheld photography.
For Different Travelers
Tailored advice for your travel style
👨👩👧 Families with Kids
Look for more approachable food options like tlayudas, tamales, and fresh juices. While the market is generally safe, it's always wise to keep belongings secure and stay together. Consider visiting during less crowded hours, like weekday mornings, for a more relaxed experience with younger children.
💰 Budget Travelers
Buying fresh produce or local snacks can also be very budget-friendly. Remember to carry cash, as this is the primary mode of payment and can sometimes lead to better prices. Avoid the most tourist-centric stalls if you're looking for the absolute best deals, and observe where locals are eating.
foodie Travelers
Engage with the vendors, ask questions about the ingredients and preparation, and savor the authentic tastes. Consider taking a guided food tour to gain deeper insights and discover hidden culinary gems. This market is a vibrant showcase of Oaxaca's rich gastronomic heritage.
Deep Dives
In-depth insights and expert knowledge
The Culinary Heart: Pasillo de Humo
Once your meat is ready, you can pair it with a variety of accompaniments, often served on a platter. Common sides include fresh tortillas, guacamole, salsa, onions, and radishes. Many visitors recommend trying different meats and sharing to get a broader taste of what the Pasillo de Humo offers. It's a lively, sometimes chaotic, but incredibly rewarding gastronomic adventure.
While the smoke can be intense, it's a quintessential Oaxacan experience that shouldn't be missed. The vendors are skilled and efficient, ensuring you get your delicious meal quickly. It's a place where locals and tourists alike gather to savor authentic Oaxacan flavors.
Beyond the Smoke: Exploring Other Market Delights
Don't forget to sample chapulines (grasshoppers), a popular Oaxacan snack often seasoned with chili and lime. For those seeking something sweet, look for stalls selling artisanal bread, chocolate, and ice cream. You can also find fresh juices, aguas frescas, and the unique pre-Hispanic drink tejate.
The market is also a fantastic place to find local produce, cheeses, mezcal, and handicrafts. It's a vibrant ecosystem where you can experience the daily life of Oaxaca and find unique souvenirs. Remember to bring cash, as most vendors do not accept cards.
Navigating the Market Experience
While some visitors find the vendors to be a bit pushy, most agree that a polite but firm 'no, thank you' will suffice. It's also a great opportunity to practice your Spanish and interact with the friendly locals. Many vendors are happy to explain their dishes or offer a small sample.
Comfortable footwear is essential, as you'll be doing a lot of walking. Carrying cash is also crucial, as card payments are not widely accepted. The market can get warm, so staying hydrated with fresh juices or aguas frescas is a good idea.
Social
from TikTok, Instagram & Reddit