
Mercado 20 de Noviembre Oaxaca
Oaxaca's vibrant food market, famous for its smoky 'Pasillo de Humo' and giant tlayudas. A must-visit for authentic, affordable Oaxacan cuisine.

Highlights
Must-see attractions
Social
From TikTok & Reddit
Best Time
Beat the crowds, fresh food

Mercado 20 de Noviembre Oaxaca
Best Time
Beat the crowds, fresh food

Highlights
Must-see attractions
Oaxaca's vibrant food market, famous for its smoky 'Pasillo de Humo' and giant tlayudas. A must-visit for authentic, affordable Oaxacan cuisine.
"Dive into the smoky heart of Oaxaca for an unforgettable culinary adventure at Mercado 20 de Noviembre."

🔥 Embrace the Smoke!
Don't shy away from the 'Pasillo de Humo' – the smoky air is part of the experience!
💰 Affordable Eats
Enjoy delicious Oaxacan cuisine at budget-friendly prices. Meals can be around $3-$5 USD.

Highlights
Discover the most iconic attractions and experiences

Pasillo de Humo (Corridor of Smoke)
Central food section
Experience the smoky aroma and sizzling sounds of grilled meats cooked over open coals. A true Oaxacan culinary adventure.

Giant Tlayudas
Various food stalls
Savor massive, delicious tlayudas, some famously half-meter long, a must-try Oaxacan specialty.

Local Delicacies
Throughout the market
Sample traditional Oaxacan foods like tasajo, mole, tamales, and regional drinks like tejate.
Plans like a pro.
Thinks like you
Planning Your Visit
Embrace the Culinary Chaos
Timing is Everything
Best Times
Insider Tips
from TikTok, Instagram & Reddit
🔥 Embrace the Smoke!
Don't shy away from the 'Pasillo de Humo' – the smoky air is part of the experience!
💰 Affordable Eats
Enjoy delicious Oaxacan cuisine at budget-friendly prices. Meals can be around $3-$5 USD.
🚶♀️ Explore Both Markets
Mercado 20 de Noviembre is great for food, while Mercado Benito Juárez nearby offers crafts and produce.
☕ Try Local Drinks
Don't miss out on traditional Oaxacan beverages like tejate or fresh pozol.
Tips
from all over the internet
🔥 Embrace the Smoke!
Don't shy away from the 'Pasillo de Humo' – the smoky air is part of the experience!
💰 Affordable Eats
Enjoy delicious Oaxacan cuisine at budget-friendly prices. Meals can be around $3-$5 USD.
🚶♀️ Explore Both Markets
Mercado 20 de Noviembre is great for food, while Mercado Benito Juárez nearby offers crafts and produce.
☕ Try Local Drinks
Don't miss out on traditional Oaxacan beverages like tejate or fresh pozol.
🫓 Tlayuda Time
Look for the famous half-meter tlayudas for a truly epic meal!
What Travellers Say
Reviews Summary
Visitors rave about the authentic and affordable culinary experience at Mercado 20 de Noviembre, particularly the smoky 'Pasillo de Humo' and giant tlayudas. While the vibrant, sometimes chaotic atmosphere is a highlight, some find the intense smoke overwhelming. The variety of local delicacies and the budget-friendly prices make it a must-visit for food lovers.
"Excellent variety of flowers. They open early. I was there at 7:30 am, and several businesses were already open."
MTRO. ALEJANDRO GUTIÉRREZ GALLEGOS
"The food is cheap and good place to have lunch"
Daniel Neira
"Please be respectful
My boyfriend gave me a huge bouquet of flowers. I thanked him, they looked impressive but wilted. He told me he asked for a huge flower arrangement and they told him one with 100 roses would look as huge as he wanted. He asked for it, but they didn't have a physical one. He trusted me it would be beautiful because they showed him a photo of what it would look like, but it seems they chose flowers that would die the next day, and that's how it did.
It didn't have a base so that when you put water in it, it wouldn't fall, but when you did, everything fell to the bottom and there was no way to hydrate them, so they put some ugly crumpled paper in it to decorate the vase."
silvana evt evt
What People Like
What People Dislike
Frequently Asked Questions
🚇 🗺️ Getting There
The market is centrally located in Oaxaca City, making it easily accessible. It's a short walk from the Zócalo and other main attractions. Taxis and ride-sharing services are also readily available.
Yes, it's right next to Mercado Benito Juárez, which focuses more on produce and crafts. You can easily walk between them to experience a wider range of Oaxacan goods.
The markets are pedestrian-friendly. Wear comfortable shoes as you'll be doing a lot of walking and standing.
🎫 🎫 Tickets & Entry
No, entry to Mercado 20 de Noviembre is free. It's a public market where you pay for the food and goods you purchase.
The market generally opens early, around 7:30 AM, and stays open through the evening. Specific vendor hours may vary, but the food stalls are typically active throughout the day.
There is no separate entrance fee for the Pasillo de Humo. It's a section within the market where you purchase food directly from the vendors.
🎫 🧭 Onsite Experience
The 'Pasillo de Humo' (Corridor of Smoke) is a famous section of the market known for its dense, aromatic smoke from numerous food stalls grilling meats like tasajo over open coals. It's a quintessential Oaxacan culinary experience.
You'll find a wide array of Oaxacan specialties, including grilled meats (tasajo), tlayudas, mole, tamales, empanadas, and local drinks. It's a fantastic place for street food and authentic regional dishes.
While the market is famous for its grilled meats, you can find some vegetarian options like empanadas, tostadas, and possibly some vegetable-based dishes. It's best to ask vendors directly.
Yes, it can get very crowded, especially during peak lunch hours. Visiting earlier in the morning or later in the afternoon can offer a less crowded experience.
While Mercado 20 de Noviembre is primarily a food market, its neighbor, Mercado Benito Juárez, offers a wide selection of local crafts, textiles, and souvenirs.
🍽️ 🍽️ Food & Dining
The 'Pasillo de Humo' for grilled tasajo is a must. Also, try the giant tlayudas, especially from La Chinita, and don't miss out on empanadas and regional drinks like tejate.
Food here is very affordable. You can expect to pay around $3-$5 USD for a substantial meal, making it a great value for authentic Oaxacan cuisine.
La Chinita is a highly recommended spot for their famous half-meter tlayudas. Many other stalls also offer delicious versions of this Oaxacan staple.
Look for vendors selling empanadas, tostadas, and taquitos. While meat is dominant, these offer delicious alternatives. Pozol and coffee are also great accompaniments.
Yes, you can find ingredients like Oaxacan chocolate and coffee at the market, perfect for souvenirs or to recreate the flavors at home.
📸 📸 Photography
Capture the vibrant atmosphere of the 'Pasillo de Humo' with its dramatic smoke, the colorful displays of produce in Mercado Benito Juárez, and the sheer size of the giant tlayudas.
Generally, it's appreciated to ask for permission before taking close-up photos of vendors or their stalls. A smile and a polite gesture usually suffice.
Morning light can be beautiful for capturing the market's activity without harsh shadows. The evening can offer a more atmospheric, smoky vibe in the 'Pasillo de Humo'.
For Different Travelers
Tailored advice for your travel style
👨👩👧 Families with Kids
💰 Budget Travelers
🍜 Food Enthusiasts
Deep Dives
In-depth insights and expert knowledge
The Iconic Pasillo de Humo
Visitors often describe the experience as intense and exhilarating. The sheer volume of food being prepared simultaneously creates a unique atmosphere. You can choose your meat, and it's typically served with tortillas, salsas, and guacamole. While it's a meat-lover's paradise, the vibrant energy and the theatricality of the cooking process make it a must-see even for those who aren't indulging in the grilled offerings. It's a place where locals and tourists alike gather to savor the bold flavors of Oaxaca.
Beyond the Smoke: Culinary Treasures
Beyond these stars, explore stalls offering empanadas, tamales steamed in corn husks, and rich, complex moles. For beverages, try tejate, a pre-Hispanic drink made from corn and cacao, or a refreshing pozol. The market is also a great place to pick up Oaxacan ingredients like artisanal chocolate and coffee to take a taste of Oaxaca home with you.
Navigating the Market Experience
Be prepared for crowds, especially during peak lunch hours. If you prefer a more relaxed atmosphere, consider visiting in the morning when vendors are just setting up, or in the late afternoon as the lunch rush subsides. Interacting with vendors, even with a language barrier, is part of the charm. A smile and a few basic Spanish phrases can go a long way.




Social
from TikTok, Instagram & Reddit