Chez Boulay - comptoir boréal

Chefs Jean-Luc Boulay and Arnaud Marchand, who are both revered in this town, delight patrons with elegant interpretations of cuisine inspired by northern Québec and made entirely from local ingredients, including reinvented classic desserts, such as iced nougat with cloudberries. A mix of locals celebrating special occasions and tourists fresh from shopping rue St-Jean dine in this elegant dining room on bison tartare, braised beef ravioli with candied red cabbage, and salmon in a flavorful cranberry glaze. The somber color scheme, rustic-meets-modern graphics, and dark wood trim make this one of the more sophisticated bistros in the neighborhood.

A new addition to the cafes in Quebec City, Comptoir Boreal is more of a “counter” than a cafe, but this little gem on Côte du Palais is a lovely little spot for a quiet cup of tea, hot chocolate; or for indulging in a sweet treat or light lunch. A companion to Chez Boulay, a gourmet restaurant specializing in boréal cuisine (wild game, berries, herbs and other ingredients found in Northern Canada), Comptoir Boréal continues the restaurant’s theme. When I visit, it is usually in the morning when the croissants are fresh and warm and the atmosphere to quiet.

The boreal forests of the Northern Territories—the home of First Nation People and early Quebecers who sated their appetites on wild fruit, forest mushrooms, game, water fish, and plants—inspire this unique and authentic restaurant, bent on bringing truly regional food with a twist to the table. Chef Jean Luc Boulay and business partner Arnaud Marchand rise to the delectable challenge with inventive local dishes, inspired by the terrain’s bounty, from sea buckthorn to balsam fir.

Despite a location within the walls of the old city, this "boreal bistro" is distinctly au courant with its celebration of hyperlocal ingredients such as smoked bison breast, Saint-Laurent redfish and foraged sea buckthorn. Even at weekend brunch, you might see fir tips in the hollandaise slathered over a seared steak, hay whipped cream on the French toast or smoked mushrooms atop eggs Benedict. (chezboulay.com, 418-380-8166, brunch CA$26-32)

At Chez Boulay – Bistro Boréal, chefs Jean-Luc Boulay and Arnaud Marchand work with vegetables, cheeses, herbs, and meat culled from local fields and forests, while the freshest fish comes from the Gaspé Peninsula, a little farther east. Try the epic weekend brunch, savory or sweet, including housemade bagels and waffles.

Modern, trendy Chez Boulay-Bistro Boreal serves Nordic food in a cozy atmosphere. Les Chefs run the restaurant alums Jean Luc Boulay and Arnaud Marchand, and the food they offer is both savory and strong. While the service is more sophisticated, the simple decor is modeled after bistros and cafés from Scandinavia.

One of the best restaurants in Quebec City, Chez Boulay’s brunch is offered on Saturdays and Sundays. Bistro of the boreal type, that is to say a place offering a local cuisine whose inspiration lies in Nordic cuisine. The menu changes frequently, but the quality remains at its highest.

Journalist, columnist and blogger, Allison is passionate about Québec City’s culinary culture. Curious and aware of the latest culinary trends, Allison makes the region’s foodie culture shine bright.

A fairly new addition to Old Québec’s Uppertown, Comptoir Boréal is part of the restaurant Chez Boulay, Comptoir Boréal is a delightfully small comptoir (French for counter) and café.