This family-owned trattoria has been open since 1951 and serves fresh seafood and traditional Sicilian cuisine. The founder handed it down to his two sons: Pippo, the current owner who continues the tradition today, and Gianni, who took off to open Corona Trattoria on his own. (Don’t bring it up—family feuds live on forever here in Sicily.) It’s located just a short walk from the Politeama Garibaldi Theater, so head here before or after a show for some sweet-and-sour eggplant caponata, panelle chickpea fritters, and the daily catch, which might include shrimp, squid, or swordfish.

This is the sort of unpretentious place that endears visitors to Palermo, despite the Naples homage woven into its name. A mainstay of the Borgo Vecchio neighbourhood – the onetime stomping ground of sailors – Piccolo Napoli’s menu is heavy on no-frills local basics. Follow the cues of the regulars and ask what’s good that day, rather than ordering off the menu – but if you’re shy, you can’t go wrong with the golden-baked, breadcrumb-stuffed sardines ( sarde a beccafico).

Somewhat similar is Piccolo Napoli, which refers to an earlier, bigger restaurant called The Napoli; it serves mostly traditional Palermitan seafood (4 Piazzetta Mulino a Vento; 091-320-431; entrées, $37–$59). For refined Sicilian cooking, Osteria dei Vespri, on the ground floor of the Palazzo Gangi, is an excellent option (6 Piazza Croce dei Vespri; 091-617-1631; entrées, $21–$24).

I’d argue that despite the impressive menus he tries elsewhere, Bourdain’s meal at Trattoria Piccolo Napoli with food writer Mary Taylor Simeti is his favorite. This isn’t a fancy meal, nor is it street food; instead, the two discuss Sicilian food and politics over dishes including panelli (fried chickpea fritters), caponata (sweet and sour eggplant), spaghetti al nero deseppia (spaghetti in cuttlefish ink), casarecce al pesce spada (pasta with swordfish, eggplant, and tomatoes), plus Sicilian white wine. It’s during this scene that Tony says something along the lines of “there it is,” a magic phrase he says when he’s finally found that meal, those flavors he was looking for in that destination.

Seventy-year-old Trattoria Piccolo Napoli may have Naples in its name but everything about this family-run restaurant is typically Palermitano – it even made the late Anthony Bourdain’s favourite Sicilian restaurant list. Expect hearty welcomes all round and lots of wood, but you're not here for the décor so get to ordering Bourdain’s picks: panelle, caponata (chopped fried aubergine in tomato sauce, celery, olives, and capers), spaghetti al nero di seppia (cuttlefish ink spaghetti), casarecce al pesce spada (pasta with swordfish, eggplant, and tomatoes). Piccolo Napoli is off-the-tourist-trail, but you’ll need to book ahead as it’s a favourite with locals (and savvy tourists).

The Corona family has been operating this essential Sicilian trattoria since 1951 in Palermo.Frequented by locals and popular with visitors,Piccolo Napoli serves straightforward Sicilian dishes extremely well. Each day, local fishermen arrive with catches reserved specially for the restaurant, which determines the menu. A fresh seafood display welcomes you at the entrance, as well as a table full of Sicilian antipasti to start your meal.

Piccolo Napoli: This family-run establishment serves nice fish dishes in Borgo Vecchio. Booking is essential on the weekends, as palermitani flock for polpo bollito (boiled octopus), spaghetti con i ricci (with sea urchin roe), and involtini di spatola (filets of scabbard fish rolled around breadcrumbs, pine nuts and currants). Save room for a few buccellati (the original fig newton!) and cassata brought in from Pasticceria Oscar.

Restaurants in Palermo come and go, but Piccolo Napoli never seems to change, nor does owner Pippo Corona who welcomes everyone with open arms. This is as local as it gets; stout moustachioed grannies in black sit next to grandsons shovelling ink black spaghetti into their mouths whilst everyone talks over each other. The fish is outstanding with local gourmands declaring it the finest in the city.

We had an excellent lunch at Trattoria Piccolo Napoli, www.trattoriapiccolonapoli.it. Piccolo Napoli had been recommended by an Italian friend in the wine business but apparently Anthony Bourdain had once dined here and the owner told us that lots of Americans had been showing up ever since. Our welcome was much more cordial when we told him (in Italian) that his friend Sasha had sent us!.

Fortunately, Trattoria Piccolo Napoli in Palermo understands that you can’t wait for your invitation to an Italian baptism and have a superb example to try on their menu.