Literally carved into the side of a hill made up of ancient shards of amphorae, this upscale, family-run establishment has an exceptional wine cellar and stellar contemporary cocktails that incorporate traditional local ingredients. One of the first restaurants to open near Testaccio's (now long-closed) slaughterhouse, it still serves classic offal dishes—though the white-jacketed waiters are happy to suggest other options.

The slightly gritty neighborhood of Testaccio is where Romans go to eat quinto quarto, i.e., offal. This upscale family-run restaurant was one of the first to open near the slaughterhouse that gave birth to this culinary tradition. Aside from Roman-style tripe and coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew), you’ll find the classic Roman pastas as well as some seasonal specials.

Let's be clear: The menu at Checchino dal 1887 is offal-tastic. So if eating animal innards isn't your thing, either head somewhere else or go for the vegetarian menu. Kick things off with the veal head served with citrus peel, then move on to the beef tripe cooked in pecorino, mint, and tomato sauce.

Testaccio's unique culinary heritage is perhaps best captured at the well-known restaurant Checchino dal 1887, which was originally established to serve the neighbourhood's growing working-class community. During the late 19th Century, the industrial development of Rome and the opening of a nearby slaughterhouse, known as the Mattatoio, drew an influx of workers to Testaccio. Using leftover ingredients provided by the slaughterhouse workers, Romans began transforming humble ingredients like offal (so-called "fifth quarter") into the flavourful dishes of the cucina povera – Rome's "cuisine of the poor".

Questo storico ristorante romano è condotto dai fratelli Mariani con Francesco in sala ed Elio in cucina. Per la loro carbonara viene utilizzato il guanciale del Consorzio Salsiccia di Monte San Biagio (presidio Slow Food) e il Pecorino Romano Dop prodotto nell’alto Lazio da Fulvi per realizzare una classica carbonara con uovo intero ottenuta direttamente in padella con poca acqua di cottura. L’abbondante dose di pecorino in purezza ha contribuito a creare una bella crema, con un gusto deciso e forse un pelino troppo salato.

Situato nel cuore di Testaccio, questo ristorante profuma di antico: si trova infatti sotto il Monte dei Cocci, e dunqque la sua cantina è letteralmente costituita da frammenti di anfore romane lungo tutte le mura perimetrali: vale dunque la pena richiedere una visita ai gentilissimi fratelli Mariani, proprietari dell’attività nonché figli della mitica “Ninetta”. Il tutto, naturalmente, dopo aver assaggiato i loro Bucatini all’amatriciana, rigorosamente fedeli alla ricetta tradizionale!

For those who love tradition, Checchino dal 1887 offers a €65 tasting menu featuring the dishes that made it one of the most famous restaurants in Rome. With a seasonal menu that highlights the freshest local ingredients, Checchino has been serving up Roman cuisine for over a century, making it one of the oldest restaurants in Rome. One of the restaurant’s specialties is cucina del quinto quarto, or ‘fifth quarter’ cuisine.

Run by the Mariani brothers, Checchino dal 1887 is one of the most famous restaurants in Rome to eat carbonara at. It’s off the beaten path (and thus, a bit of a hike to get to), located close to the Testaccio market, but in a place like Italy, this is only a good thing. This is not only one of the best places in Rome for carbonara but also other traditional Roman pasta dishes such as cacio e pepe and amatriciana.

In the heart of Rome’s Testaccio district, an area steeped in history and culinary tradition, stands Checchino, an establishment that has become an institution in its own right. Checchino, renowned for its commitment to classic Roman cuisine, offers a Carbonara that is a pure reflection of this ethos. The Carbonara served at Checchino is a perfect blend of classicism and modern sensibilities.

With six generations of family behind it and located across from what was Rome’s old central slaughterhouse, the city’s history runs through Checchino’s bones. Delicious old school dishes celebrate what was referred to as the “fifth quarter” back in the day, I.e. heads, tails, feet and innards. This is non-fussy and historical eating at its very offal best.

If you ask a Roman who knows their food where you should head for real food they will undoubtedly send you to the area of Testaccio, not far from the historical center. Ask them where to eat in Testaccio for authentic cucina romana - they'll say Checchino. It features traditional Roman favorites, with an added twist to some of the dishes.

The dining area, with its rustic decorations, antique chandeliers, and vintage seatings, will make you feel like you are in 18th-century Rome. Not only the interior is nostalgic, but also the food is magnificent. Have some authentic Roman Italian dishes in Checchino Dal 1887, ranging from cacio de pepe to steaks with delightful sauce.

Although many of Rome’s some 5,000 bustling, clattery trattorie serving Roman specialties are family-run, only Checchino dal 1887 has belonged to the same family for so long, five generations so far. The restaurant is carved into the man-made Monte de’ Cocci, a hill of discarded broken amphoras from Rome’s nearby port.

( MAP) Let’s be clear: The menu at Checchino dal 1887 is offal-tastic. So, if eating animal innards isn’t your thing, either head somewhere else or go for the vegetarian menu. Kick things off with the veal head served with citrus peel, then move on to the beef tripe cooked in pecorino, mint, and tomato sauce.

If you're looking for a dinner spot that's a little nicer, Checchino (shown above) is the place to go. They're famous for meat, so, be sure to order something from their wide carne selection. I, for one, love the roulade of lamb chops. They also have fantastic tasting menus if you can't decide what to get!

Let's be clear: the menu at Checchino dal 1887 is offal-tastic. So if eating animal innards isn't your thing, either head somewhere else or go for the vegetarian menu. Kick things off with the veal head served with citrus peel, then move on to the beef tripe cooked in pecorino, mint, and tomato sauce.

The bravest in your group will try rigatoni con la pajata at least once in Rome. With the term “pajata”, Romans indicate the first part of the small intestine of the calf that has only eaten milk. The small intestine gets cleaned but it still contains the milk eaten by the little veal.

And let’s not forget that I am a sucker for crisp linens and retro swiveling barstools studded with copper nails. White jacketed waiters go through an elaborate show of wheeling around a small table and pouring wine through a series of unneeded but atmosphere-enhancing steps.

I read an article in RomaToday that gave recommendations for where to eat in Testaccio, and Checchino dal 1887 seems like our style, so we checked it out. Our tastes veer towards classically prepared dishes and this restaurant checked all the right boxes.

Go for the terrific old-style service and quinto quarto-style cooking (offal). Don't miss abbacchio alla cacciatora (baby lamb stew) and apple cake house-made by the chef/owner's sister. Via Monte Testaccio 30Rome, 00153+39-06-574-3816

Lunch: 12:30-3pm; dinner: 7:30-11pm; closed Mondays and Tuesdays. If you want to eat Roman offal, this is the place to do it. For me, their rigatoni al sugo di coda are the best in town.

Checchino dal 1887 - is a historically Typical Roman Restaurant. It is located in the heart of Testaccio. The restaurant is built into the Mountain of Terracotta.