
Flavio al Velavevodetto
A beloved trattoria in Rome's Testaccio neighborhood, celebrated for its authentic Roman dishes and cozy, local ambiance.

Highlights
Must-see attractions
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Blue hour photography, calmer galleries

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Highlights
Must-see attractions
A beloved trattoria in Rome's Testaccio neighborhood, celebrated for its authentic Roman dishes and cozy, local ambiance.
Book Ahead
Reservations are highly recommended to secure a table at this popular local spot, especially on Mondays.
Embrace Roman Classics
Don't shy away from traditional dishes like rigatoni alla pajata (cow intestine) for an authentic culinary adventure.

Quick Facts
Cuisine
Roman
Price
Mid-range
Phone
+39 06 574 4194
Address
Via di Monte Testaccio, 97, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Highlights
Discover the most iconic attractions and experiences

Authentic Roman Pasta Perfection
Experience iconic Roman pasta dishes like Cacio e Pepe and Carbonara, prepared with traditional expertise and fresh ingredients.

Local's Favorite in Testaccio
Discover a cozy, unpretentious atmosphere loved by locals, offering an authentic taste of Rome away from tourist crowds.

Unique Oxtail Stew
Savor the rich and deeply flavored Coda alla Vaccinara, a true Roman specialty that's a must-try for adventurous eaters.
Plans like a pro.
Thinks like you
Insider Tips
from TikTok, Instagram & Reddit
Book Ahead
Reservations are highly recommended to secure a table at this popular local spot, especially on Mondays.
Embrace Roman Classics
Don't shy away from traditional dishes like rigatoni alla pajata (cow intestine) for an authentic culinary adventure.
Save Room for Dessert
The homemade tart cherry cake and creamy tiramisu are highly praised and a perfect way to end your meal.
Come Hungry
Portions are generous and rich, so prepare for a hearty meal. Consider sharing or ordering lighter appetizers.
Tips
from all over the internet
Book Ahead
Reservations are highly recommended to secure a table at this popular local spot, especially on Mondays.
Embrace Roman Classics
Don't shy away from traditional dishes like rigatoni alla pajata (cow intestine) for an authentic culinary adventure.
Save Room for Dessert
The homemade tart cherry cake and creamy tiramisu are highly praised and a perfect way to end your meal.
Come Hungry
Portions are generous and rich, so prepare for a hearty meal. Consider sharing or ordering lighter appetizers.
What Travellers Say
Reviews Summary
Flavio al Velavevodetto is celebrated for its authentic Roman cuisine, with pasta dishes like Cacio e Pepe and Carbonara earning high praise for their traditional preparation and delicious flavors. Diners appreciate the cozy, local atmosphere and the extensive wine list. However, some reviews mention issues with service organization, with waiters occasionally seeming overwhelmed, and one reviewer noted unexpected charges for bread.
"Authentic roman restaurant. Highly recommend. Warm welcome from friendly staffs, variety of wine selections available, great tasty food. Had rigatoni alla carbonara and rigatoni alla pajata (cow intestine) and articoke antipasti. Great dining experience."
Yesul Oh
"This is the kind of place you hope to find yourself in, when you travel to Rome. Off the tourist track, no loud talking Americans and Brits. Just a relaxed, confident and unprentious restaurant. Full of charm, authenticity, friendly service and above all great food. The carbonara and Cacio e Pepe are quite rightly famous (they're fantastic), but for me, the Trippa is the star! Wow, what a perfect meal."
Arthur Farley
"Traditional dishes expertly made. Had the feel of an old establishment loved by locals. We were seated outside, which turned out to be a mistake for a mosquito magnet like me, though."
S. Park
What People Like
What People Dislike
Frequently Asked Questions
The Cacio e Pepe and Carbonara are legendary. The Coda alla Vaccinara (oxtail stew) and fried artichokes are also highly recommended.
Yes, reservations are strongly recommended as the restaurant is very popular, especially with locals.
Yes, Flavio al Velavevodetto offers an outside area during the summer season, which can be enjoyable in nice weather.
The dining room is built into Monte Testaccio, a hill composed of ancient Roman pottery shards, giving it a unique historic setting.
Yes, vegetarian options like Pasta e Ceci are available and recommended.
The atmosphere is described as cozy, unpretentious, authentic, and filled with locals, offering a relaxed dining experience.
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Testaccio is the trendy neighbourhood of Rome – it’s where to go to drink, have a bite to eat and mingle with the coolest of the Roman youth. Here you’ll find Flavio al Velavevodetto (literally ‘Flavio at I Told You So’), a traditional Roman restaurant so good it was recommended by all three of the experts. Gerundino describes it as, “The classic example of a place where the chef actually likes to eat and make other people eat, too.” The place feels homey, with stone walls and a beautiful veranda to enjoy during the warmer months, and it seems to be a favourite for the food critics and culinary experts as well as the Instagrammers.
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Named by Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini as one of his favourite places to dine in Rome, Flavio al Velavevodetto has earned a cult following among local gastronomes who flock for its traditional, thoughtfully prepared local dishes served at fair prices. Expect all the Roman classics – cacio e pepe, carbonara, offal, and lamb – as well as some fish dishes, which aren't quite as satisfying. The breaded and fried lamb chops are out of this world and save room for dessert – the creamy tiramisu is divine.
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It's everything you're looking for in a true Roman eating experience: authentic, in a historic setting, and filled with Italians eating good food at good prices. In this very romani di Roma (Rome of the Romans) neighborhood, surrounded by discos and bars, you can enjoy classic local dishes, from vegetable antipasto to cacio e pepe (said to be the best version in the city) and lamb chops.
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Flavio De Maio of Flavio al Velavevodetto (Via di Monte Testaccio 97, +39 06 574 4194) got a late start in professional kitchens. After a career in tech, he changed gears to join the Roman institution Felice a Testaccio where, guided by Felice himself, he perfected the trattoria’s forte: cacio e pepe, pasta tossed with finely grated Pecorino Romano and coarsely ground black pepper. After Felice’s passing in 2009, Flavio opened his own place in Testaccio where he serves a variation of his maestro’s recipe, blending a thick paste of Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano Reggiano with hot tonnarelli, a splash of pasta water, and pepper.
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Flavio de Maio, chef e patron del ristorante propone una ricetta ipertradizionale con un guanciale dell’Antica Macelleria Falorni tagliato in spesse strisce rosolate alla perfezione e sfumate con vino bianco. Il procedimento prevede di buttare le mezze maniche (Le gemme del Vesuvio) appena scolate in padella con l’uovo intero, il guanciale, una parte del suo grasso, un goccio di acqua minerale frizzante con una macinata abbondante di pepe. Il tutto viene fatto addensare sul fuoco e qualche secondo prima di spegnere viene aggiunta un’abbondante manciata di Pecorino Romano Dop e ancora un pizzico di pepe.
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Testaccio has been a food centric neighborhood for literally centuries, from where deliveries arrived and were distributed from in the Roman empire, to the location of Rome’s slaughterhouses until the turn of the last century and today as home to a terrific market and an excellent selection of classic trattorias. My go to in this part of town is Flavio al Velavevodetto. The main dining room is built into the Monte Testaccio which was made from ancient pottery shards and in nice weather there is a lovely rooftop.
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Another Roman restaurant serving up the city's classic dishes, Flavio al Velavevodetto is located in an unusual place, under the tossed off terra cotta pots (or amphorae) of Ancient Rome known as Monte Testaccio. Come here for local specialties such as the coda alla vaccinara, or oxtail stewed in a tasty tomato sauce, and one of Rome's best carbonara. For dessert, Flavio al Velavevodetto's tiramisu in a cup can't be beat for it's super creamy mascarpone mixed with chocolate pieces and more chocolate sauce.
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Located on the Via di Monte Testaccio within the Testaccio district, Flavio Al Velavevodetto is a traditional and longstanding restaurant specializing in authentic Roman cuisine. Cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, and alla gricia are the best dishes on the menu, according to customers’ reviews, and prices are pretty affordable compared to other similar Rome establishments. Flavio al Velavevodetto is open for lunch and dinner, every day from 12:30 PM to 03:00 PM and from 7:45 PM to 11:30 PM.
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When food was brought into Rome via Testaccio, it came in clay pots, and when these pots cracked, they were thrown into a pile that eventually grew into a huge hill of broken pots. The people in the neighborhood soon realized that the temperature inside the hill was several degrees cooler than outside (because of the pots), so they started building wine cellars and storing wine in the hill!. Slowly, restaurants and bars started cropping up to take advantage of this unique story!
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This no-nonsense osteria in Testaccio specializes in the Roman cuisine, offering all the classics: meatballs, puntarelle (a type of chicory), carciofo alla giudia (fried artichoke) and – of course – pasta classics such as carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe. Chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves his version of the cacio e pepe with pecorino romano, black pepper, a bit of cooking water from the pasta and some olive oil, giving the dish the right amount of spiciness.
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A truly unique location escavated inside the Monte Testaccio, Ancient Rome “dump” where terracotta jars used to be collected after use. This fascinating trattoria has also a nice outdoors to enjoy traditional local specialties (pasta cacio & pepe and Roman style saltimbocca are absolutely worth trying!) and great local wines. Booking in advance is highly recommended, especially on the weekends, as this is one of the best trattorias in Rome.
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Flavio al Velavevodetto, in the vibrant heart of Rome, emerges as a culinary jewel, offering a memorable gastronomic experience. This restaurant, though less frequented by the tourist crowds, is a cherished locale among those who seek authentic Roman flavors, especially when it comes to pasta dishes like Carbonara. At Flavio, the Carbonara is a true embodiment of Roman culinary art and it’s so velvety that it almost melts in your mouth.
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Via di Monte Testaccio, 97 (Testaccio) 06 5744194ristorantevelavevodetto.it. The historic Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood offers an excellent carbonara with short ribbed pasta, usually rigatoni but sometimes mezze maniche (“half-sleeves”), guanciale from Antica Macelleria Falorni, white wine and a whole egg. Abundant pepper and the exquisite pecorino romano DOP elevate the flavors to perfection.
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Flavio al Velavevodetto is located in the slightly off-the-beaten-track Testaccio neighbourhood of Rome, not far from the much more popular Trastevere area. There are many fantastic restaurants here but our favourite is Flavio al Velavevodetto. It’s built against the Monte Testaccio, a hill made of broken olive oil amphorae from Roman times, and you can see the amphorae if you sit inside the main dining room.
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Flavio al Velavevodetto has taken Rome by storm with its perfect cacio e pepe: al dente, creamy and oh-so-tasty. Located on Monte dei Cocci Hill in Testaccio, it’s much larger than its fellow trattorias with more than 200 seats (that said, we still recommend reserving)!. In two of the indoor dining rooms, you can even see the remains of the broken terracotta Ancient Roman jars depicting Monte Testaccio Hill.
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At Flavio al Velavevodetto you’ll find great cooking and a very pleasant atmosphere. There’s both an internal courtyard and a stunning terrace for eating outside and enjoying the balmy evenings. The historic district of Testaccio is the home of some classic Roman dishes: fish is served on Tuesdays and Fridays (local seafood, amberjack fish and cod), offal gnocchi on Thursdays, and roasted lamb on Saturdays.
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Flavio al Velavevodetto (Testaccio or Prati); Armando al Pantheon; Trattoria Piperno in the Jewish ghetto (which has a fascinating history); Trattoria da Cesare al Casaletto, La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali where I recently had a lovely dinner with my parents (don’t miss the tiramisù), the humble trattoria SantoPalato, or Il Sorpasso in Prati, a lively wine bar / restaurant and recent new discovery of mine.
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Flavio al Velavevodetto serves delicious food made with high-quality seasonal ingredients sourced from their own farmland. Coincidentally, this restaurant is located inside Monte dei Cocci, an ancient Roman rubbish dump with an estimated 53 million terracotta amphorae, making it a one-of-a-kind place to enjoy your pasta. Their amatriciana is to die for along with their cacio e pepe, carbonara, and gricia.
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A post shared by Lindsay • Professional Eater (@the_hunger_diaries). For another fulfilling and extremely satisfying twist on the tiramisu, try Flavio al Velavevodetto’s creation, which is served on a tall glass. With the absolute perfect sweetness and a puddle of melted chocolate on top instead of the traditional cocoa powder, the balance is so perfect that it’ll make you go ‘mmm’ at every bite.
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If you want to eat a good carbonara in an authentic Roman tavern, it’s worth your while to stop by Flavio al Velavevodetto. This tavern, located on the urban hillside of Monte Testaccio, has by now become an institution in Rome, despite having only opened in 2009. Thanks to the Roman chef Flavio De Maio from the Garbatella neighborhood, you can taste the smoothest carbonara in the whole capital.
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Not far from the Testaccio market (and situated on the slope of Monte Testaccio, the mound of millions of ancient Roman terracotta), Flavio al Velavevodetto bustles with a largely local clientele. They're there for the classic dishes like fried meatballs, Roman-style artichokes, and a particularly notable cacio e pepe. Service is friendly but slow, so just lean into the long and leisurely meal.
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Located in the Testaccio neighborhood (aka Rome’s unofficial food district), this trattoria is legendary. The restaurant itself is built into a mound made from ancient Roman pottery fragments—so you’re literally dining on history. Flavio al Velavevodetto’s atmosphere is cozy, casual, and totally unpretentious, with a strong wine list to complement the rich flavors of its classic Roman dish.
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The one with the perfectly textured cream, which he has been developing for years. Set in the Monte dei Cocci di Testaccio, with a small terrace and a veranda, from Flavio al Velavevodetto you go to eat the Roman tradition done well, following the seasonality of the products, which are strictly those of their garden just outside the walls, including wine. Open from 12.00 to 22.00, all day.
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Being served a carbonara inside a literal pile of Ancient Roman trash seems like the setup of a joke. But at Flavio al Veloavevodetto – a cellar-osteria buried inside a 2,000-year-old mound made up of discarded amphora (ceramic pot) fragments – the carbonara is certainly no joke. Indeed, the restaurant's namesake chef, Flavio De Maio, has been crowned the city's very own "Carbonara King".
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At trattoria Flavio al Velavevodetto, partly burrowed into Monte Testaccio, the quartet of classic roman pastas – carbonara, gricia, amatriciana and cacio e pepe – are all superb. In season, order artichokes either Roman-style (braised whole with mint and garlic) or Jewish-style (deep-fried until they look like an exquisite bronze flower). ristorantevelavevodetto.it
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La cucina di una volta non ha segreti per il patron Flavio De Maio, che in questa trattoria propone una vasta scelta di specialità del Lazio. Segni particolari: tuttoè abbondante, molto. Come l’amatriciana, preparata con i rigatoni Gemme del Vesuvio mantecati nel sugo di guanciale Falorni (croccante e saporito) rosolato nella cipolla e sfumato con il vino bianco.
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flavio al velavevodetto, located on via di monte testaccio, offers good food but not the best pasta in italy. With a rating of 4.1, customers have mixed reviews about the pasta dishes, but praise the roman dishes and the cozy atmosphere. The restaurant is located in the historic testaccio neighborhood, making it a great spot to visit after exploring the area.
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You’ll never eat anywhere quite like Flavio al Velavevodetto. The restaurant is hewn within Mount Testaccio ( Monte Testaccio)—a man-made mountain of ancient amphorae shards situated close to the River Tiber and its ancient emporium. Dine inside its cavernous interior, and you’ll notice that the surrounding walls exhibit encased shards of broken pottery.
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Flavio al Velavevodetto is down in the trendy Trastevere neighborhood to the south of the city. This is an up and coming area, but this particular trattoria has stuck to its roots; it is distinctly traditional. The restaurant itself has vaulted stone ceilings, set on an ancient Roman archeological site, and a large outdoor terrace for the summer months.
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Located in the Testaccio neighbourhood and dug into the side of a mountain of ancient Roman amphorae, Flavio’s offers generous portions of classic cucina romana. This is one of the best places to sample local pasta dishes with chef Flavio de Maio’s cacio e pepe (pasta served with pecorino cheese and black pepper) heralded as one of the best in town.
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From Ossobuco to risotto al nero di sepia (black Risotto), they’ve got it all and they know exactly how to cook it. This was definitely my favourite place and, at the same time, the most gangster and special kitchen I visited. One of their signature dishes, the “Rigatoni con la pajata,” is actually forbidden by EU laws because of the pajata in it.
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Built into the side of a mountain constructed of the shards of ancient wine jugs, Flavio al Velavevodetto (via di Monte Testaccio, 97) serves up the best Amatriciana pasta that I’ve ever had. Perfectly al dente rigatoni is dressed with sauce comprised of salty guanciale, sweet tomatoes, and mild Pecorino cheese. It’s simply delightful.
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Referenced by Katie above, and mentioned by many in conversation, Flavio al Velavevodetto may very well have the best cacio e pepe in Rome. Elenora, a Roman foodie who shares her passions via Casa Mia Italy Food & Wine, says the best cacio e pepe in Rome can be found at Flavio’s. “His cacio e pepe is rounded, well-balanced and creamy.
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The fantastic traditional Roman cuisine at Flavio al Velavevodetto should be your primary reason for going here. Different options for eating outside at Flavio al Velavevodetto. The inside ambiance is a bit cramped but it's because the restaurant is built into an ancient Roman hillside in one of Rome's most historic neighborhoods.
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Velavevodetto has a slightly complicated location, where you really need to take a bit effort and motivation to go. However, this makes sure they offer authentic food to meet a local’s criteria. They’ve got the classic Roman dishes like Rigatoni al Sugo di Pajata, and their Carbonara is frequently recommended by my Roman friends.
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Nestled in the charming Monti neighborhood, Flavio al Velavevodetto serves authentic Roman dishes in a rustic yet cozy setting. Their pasta dishes, like Carbonara and Cacio e Pepe, are truly outstanding. And if you're feeling adventurous, try their Trippa alla Romana, a Roman-style tripe stew bound to surprise your taste buds.
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Flavio al Velavodetto is a beautiful hidden gem in Rome, easy to miss by its outdoor seating area covered in greenery. Come here to enjoy some good old cooking, nonna- style with ancient Roman recipes in a refined trattoria atmosphere. Choose from both indoor and outdoor seating but be sure to pre-book your table.
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Flavio al Velavevodetto – Another notable restaurant that we dined at was special due to the history behind (or should we say above it?). In ancient times, Romans stored goods in vessels. The area of this restaurant was used to stack the waste material from broken pots and after the great fire of Rome.
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This welcoming spot is set inside the historic archaeological site Monte Testaccio, an artificial mound composed almost entirely of testae, fragments of broken ancient Roman pottery. This means you’ll be dining surrounded by ruins and pieces of pottery dating back to the time of the Roman Empire.
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Nestled in the vibrant neighborhood of Testaccio, Flavio is steeped in Roman tradition. Authenticity seeps through every pore of this restaurant, with charmingly rustic decor and an endearing story about how Flavio, the eponymous chef-owner with a radiant Roman soul, brought it to life.
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Flavio al Velavevodetto has a glowing reputation among Romans for its delicious meat offerings. Ever since it was highlighted by Anthony Bourdain, it’s so popular that it’s wise to reserve weeks in advance. The cuisine is superb, but inside you can also see layers of urban history.
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Flavio Velavevodetto: My go to in Testaccio, especially when I want to eat outside. They’ve recently expanded their outdoor area at street level, but my favorite spot, on a summer night, is the rooftop terrace. Be forewarned: it’s up a tight circular staircase, but is worth it.
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FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO – An incredible carbonara in a historic location. This local favorite is in Monte Testaccio, a cool neighborhood built on a mound of amphora tile pieces that date back to Ancient Rome. Pro tip: finish off with their surprise-filled tiramisù.
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(2019 update: Sadly, some recent subpar experiences here have crossed Flavio al Velavevodetto off my list; it seems to have gone the way of many other Rome restaurants that hit the big time. But read on for other recommendations of the best trattorias in Rome).
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Flavio al Velavevodetto offers a relaxed, taverna-style setting where you can enjoy traditional Roman cooking. The casual atmosphere and focus on local flavors make it feel down-to-earth. It’s a solid choice for anyone who wants an authentic taste of Rome.
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Flavio al Velavevodetto is a Roman institution — and not just for tourists. It’s one of the few places that locals recommend again and again. The tonnarelli cacio e pepe here is legendary: thick, creamy, with that unmistakable punch of pecorino and pepper.
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The head chef at Flavio al Velavevodetto, Flavio de Maio, used to work in the tech industry before shifting his focus to food. And, thank Great Chef in the sky he did. Not because de Maio was terrible in tech, but because he’s great in a kitchen.
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Je vous présente Flavio De Maio, baptisé le roi de la Carbonara !. En terrasse ou en salle, cette authentique trattoria romaine est agréable avec sa cuisine typique. En restant sur les plats classiques, vous êtes certains de ne pas vous tromper.
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Located in the former slaughterhouse district of Testaccio, this is a charming restaurant offering traditional local cuisine, including the best gricia in Rome. The pasta is fresh and homemade daily, and the sauces nothing short of textbook.
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With a down-to-earth vibe, diners will be welcomed to Flavio al Velavevodetto (which roughly translates to ‘I told you so!’) with traditional Roman fare like cacio e pepe with chef Flavio de Maio’s personal culinary touch.
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Via di Monte Testaccio, 97 – Lunch: 12:30 – 3; Dinner: 7:45 – 11pm. Piazza dei Quiriti, 4 – Lunch: 12:30 – 2:30; Dinner 7:30 – 10:30. I have an entire post dedicated to Flavio al Velavevodetto because it is that good.
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Tucked in the Testaccio neighborhood, this classic spot offers generous portions and authentic flavors. Their cacio e pepe is creamy with just the right kick of pepper — a local favorite.
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🍽️ Flavio al Velavevodetto – If you want a local’s favourite, this is it. The guanciale here is diced smaller, making it crispier, and the sauce has just the right amount of pecorino.
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A post shared by Clara Carrandi Santana (@claracarrandisantana). Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome nails tiramisu. It's on Monte di Testaccio, a hill of old amphorae.
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Via di Monte Testaccio, 97, 00153 Roma RM, ItalyPhone: +39 06 574 4194 Visit Website. View this post on Instagram. A post shared by RomanFoodPorn (@romanfoodpoorn)
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Velavevodetto - one of the best local restaurant in Rome - here you will find a restaurant full of locals.
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