Anchored on peaceful Campo Widman since the '90s is Ostaria Boccadoro, where purist chef Luciano Orlandi brings fresh seafood from the Chioggia market to the plate raw or lightly cooked with the subtlest of seasoning. Ask Luciano to suggest a wine from his carefully edited Veneto-dominated selection, then peruse the menu of Boccadoro classics like succulent canestrelli (tiny Venetian scallops), daily homemade pasta, tuna tartare, a crispy frittura (fritter), and perfectly grilled fish of the day like orata (gilt-head bream) with zucchini sauce; there are meat options as well. The interior decor is elegant, with traditional linens and contemporary art.

The food at elegant, arty Ostaria Boccadoro is best described as modern with a Venetian heart. While seafood reigns supreme here, as it does all over the city, it shines in chef Luciano Orlandi’s bright, simple crudi: sea bass, tuna, and the like plated with lashings of olive oil and crunchy sea salt and pops of fresh strawberry, citrus, and other lively pairings. Seafood pasta dishes, from spaghetti and clams to light-as-air gnocchi with crab, are winners, too.

The position is already a guarantee of quality: Boccadoro is a well-lit, elegant and roomy restaurant and it mainly attracts locals. The host offers super-fresh fish served with vegetables he grows himself on the island of Sant’Erasmo, in the north lagoon. A great tip is not to look at the menu, just ask the host for recommendations, he surely will overdo your expectations.

The farm-to-table Ostaria Boccadoro is another popular haunt. You could also dine at a bacaro, a smaller wine bar with lower prices, authentic cuisine and more character. Traveler favorites include Cantina Do Spade, Alla Ciurma and Cantina Do Mori.