Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala

A few minutes from Igreja de São Francisco you'll find this pastry shop specializing in regional sweets. Set in a small house between two cobblestone streets, it stands out with its green doors and terra-cotta roof. Inside, traditional Portuguese tiles decorate the walls, but it's hard to look away from the sweets displayed behind the glass counter.

The most famous of these is pão de rala, a bread with a gooey pumpkin, almond and egg yolk centre that Dona Ercilia has been making (along with Nun’s Kisses and curd cheese tarts) at the azulejo-walled Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala since she was a toddler helping her mum (Rua de Cicioso 47). For desserts, as opposed to pastries, I head to Tasquinha do Oliveira, a homely, six-table restaurant run by husband and wife team Manuel and Carolina Oliveira (Rua Cândido dos Reis 45). Peek behind the bar to choose from Carolina’s cinnamon-sprinkled puddings, from egg-yolk-and-sugar encharcada do Convento Santa Clara to cooked rice pudding, or farófias, a local take on floating islands.

Most of these pastries fall into the category of convent sweets, little tarts and cakes that were invented in the local Convento de Santa Helena do Monte Calvário (Convent of St. Helena of the Mount Calvary) and Convento de Santa Clara. Both of these convents are still standing, although the main part of the Convento de Santa Helena is now offices for the diocese (a couple other buildings have been converted to hotels) and the Convento de Santa Clara is only occasionally open for art exhibitions.

A cinco minutos a pé do mercado, está a especialista noutros doces, na pastelaria Pão de Rala. Ercília é uma senhora pequena de touca — tanto ao vivo, ali na loja a ajudar atrás do balcão, como em todas as fotografias com clientes ilustres. Só para o retrato com João Baião tirou o capachinho de trabalho, mas com uma boa desculpa: “Não estávamos aqui, foi num programa que gravaram no Palácio D.Manuel”, justifica-se.

Other restaurants or eateries which have been recommended to me – but which I haven’t personally tried – include Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala for traditional pastries, including Queijinhos do ceu (little cheeses from heaven, a tempting name if ever there was one), Tempero & Prosa for the combination of Portuguese and Brazilian dishes and Origens for sustainably-minded local cuisine.

Fofinhos de Belas (Sintra), Pasteis de Feijão (Torres Vedras), Freirinhas (Odivelas),Travesseiros (Sintra), Queijadas (Sintra), Trouxas do Oeste (Oeste), Pastel de Nata. Sandes várias e croisssants. Café, abatanado, galão, cariocas, chás, leite ao copo e leite achocolatado, Aguardente, whisky.

We finally reached our destination, up one of the side streets; the Pastelaria Conventual, which specialized in "Conventual cakes", basically sweets that originated in the areas convents. I had a seat outside, while the Missus went to town.

Not least the unique sweets and pastries to be found at the lovely Pao de Rala Bakery. Based on traditional convent recipes, the Alentejan sweet delights on offer will immediately fix any sugar-deficiencies you might be suffering from.

When you're visiting the city there are some things you must eat!. Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala is the best place to try portuguese sweets in Évora.

Tente encontrar o que procura, por exemplo, no Café Arcada ou na Pastelaria Pão de Rala. Ou então em lojas gourmet como a Boa Boca ou a Divinus Gourmet.

Para tomar um café, não há hipótese de você deixar de lado uma passada na Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala (Rua do Cicioso, 47 – abre todos os dias).

Try to find what you look for, for example, in Café Arcada on in Pastelaria Pão de Rala. Or even in gourmet shops like Boa Boca or Divinus Gourmet.