The concept of “salgado” is not an easy one to translate, writes chef Nuno Mendes in Lisboeta, the book he launched at the end of last year about the Portuguese capital’s cuisine. And we agree, there are various factors to consider: these are small savoury pastries, good to eat with your hands and in a few bites, probably mid-morning or afternoon; they are generally fried and when freshly made they are crispy on the outside and soft and tender on the inside. We will leave the definition at that to avoid sounding like a dusty encyclopedia.

Iconic Portuguese restaurants are a part of the city’s fabric in the same way its monuments are. Gambrinus is one of those restaurants, and it’s been untouched since 1936. Three distinct dining areas show off traditional food in Lisbon: one counter, and two wood-paneled dining areas with immaculate white tablecloths.

Don’t let the wood-panelled walls and suited waiters fool you – this old-school establishment has been serving some of Lisbon’s finest seafood since 1936, and remains steadfastly unstuffy despite its grand appearance. The lobster tank by the entrance has witnessed decades of business deals and political machinations, yet the real power moves happen when someone orders the house speciality – the rich, stacked seafood stew Cataplana Gambrinus, served in a big, sharing copper pan with theatrical flourish. The staff, most of whom seem to have been here since opening day, know exactly when to top up your glass and when to leave you to savour that last spoonful of Bouillabaisse (served only on Wednesdays, and retaining an air of exclusivity as a result).

Tucked away in Lisbon’s historic Baixa district, this atmospheric beer hall decked with azulejo tiles has drawn loyal locals since 1896 with hearty regional fare and convivial surroundings. Solo dining Lisbon is not bad; you can quickly strike up friendly banter over cold draft beers and classic dishes like Portuguese chorizo flambéed tableside. Other favorites include Gambrinus’ renowned Lisbon-style sardines roasted whole to melt-in-your-mouth perfection alongside hearty pork cuts, prepared fish, and rich chocolate mousse.

Located in downtown Lisbon, Gambrinus has kept a very traditional menu of Portuguese specialties since 1936. Among the delicacies served are Bulhão Pato clams, house cataplana, Gomes Sá style codfish, and Mirandela sausage. The atmosphere is very traditional, with stained glass windows, oil paintings by Portuguese artists, and is divided into three distinct spaces: a large hall with a capacity for 80 people, a more private room with a few tables, and a counter for those seeking a quicker meal.

The specialties of the day at this Michelin-recommended restaurant number some of the best seafood options in the city. Gambrinus is synonymous with ocean cuisine and while there are meat dishes on the menu (particularly game) it's the peixes e mariscos (fish and seafood) that continues to reel in an appreciative clientele. The kitchen prides itself on cooking to perfection a range of traditional Portuguese seafood dishes such as grilled sea bream or sea bass (served in a pot with clams).

It’s surprising that croquettes aren’t Portugal’s greatest culinary export. These beefy, log-shaped fried morsels are consumed in three to five bites depending on your enthusiasm, and they’re the ultimate beer snack (and kids’ finger food). Made with a mix of braised beef and pork (heavy on the former, lighter on the latter), the filling gets ground up like sausage meat and softened with a touch of bechamel, just enough to make it fudgy (think rillettes but leaner and less livery).

**Gambrinus** is a distinguished name in Lisbon’s restaurant repertoire, a temple of gastronomy that has stood the test of time since its establishment in the 1930s. Its grandeur is evident not only in its richly decorated interior, which exudes old-world charm but also in its menu that offers an array of Portuguese cuisine prepared with precision and flair. Famous for its attentive service and a selection of fine wines and spirits, Gambrinus is the epitome of classic dining.

Still going strong after nearly 80 years, this wood-panelled dining room is tucked discreetly behind the National Theatre. Its style is unabashedly old-school — all starched white tablecloths, solid antique silverware and veteran, waistcoat-wearing staff who know their regulars. The menu takes a similar “if-it-ain’t-broke” approach, from croquettes with mustard and stacks of buttered rye toasts to kidneys in madeira wine and various egg-custard puddings.

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 23 213 421 466 Opens every day Price per person: €50 www.gambrinuslisboa.com. A Lisbon institution since it opened in 1936 as a German beer hall, it became an upscale restaurant in the 1960s serving Portuguese cuisine and specializing in seafood. The décor with exotic woods and stained glass alluding to King Gambrinus remains the same, as does the old-fashioned service, which guarantees many repeat diners.

I hate to force more seafood down your throat so late in the evening, but unfortunately this is the majority of late night dining in Lisbon. Gambrinus sits just north of the city center and is an authentic Portuguese bistro with a traditional feel from the interior through to the service. It’s rarely frequented by tourists and is more of a local hangout for Portuguese families and businessmen.

Best for: A dress-up meal, old school stalwartLocation: Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 23, Rossio, Lisbon 1150-264Price: Small plates from 18 EUR; large plates from 30 EUR. Founded in 1936, Gambrinus is one of Lisbon’s noblest eateries. Dinner in the beautifully stuck-in-time dining room followed by a dessert of crêpes Suzettes made tableside is an immensely charming, classic meal.

One of my favourite places in Lisbon is Gambrinus, a Portuguese institution founded in the 30’s. The menu and vibe feel like that era – the waiters, bartenders and kitchen staff are in their sixties and have worked there since they were kids and just stayed. At the bar you can get the best meat croquettes in town, fried to order – a rarity in Lisbon – and very classic cocktails.

This historic restaurant, founded in 1936, is a true institution in the city. The elegant interior and attentive service create a refined atmosphere that perfectly complements the exquisite seafood dishes. Gambrinus is famous for its shellfish platters, which feature a variety of delicacies such as clams, razor clams, and percebes (goose barnacles).

Since 1937, Gambrinus has been welcoming high-profile public figures, local residents and tourists alike to enjoy its traditional cuisine and elegant ambiance. The house cataplana for two is a bit pricey, but here you’re paying for more than just the food itself. Settle in and admire the sophisticated decor as you savor each spoonful.

Gambrinus has been a Lisbon fixture since 1936, offering a timeless atmosphere rooted in local tradition. The bar counter gives a relaxed feel, while the dining room preserves an old-world charm that reflects the city’s past. Its staff carries on a legacy of dedicated service that has made it a classic spot for generations.

Established in 1936, the rustic wood-panelled tavern of Gambrinus is something of an institution for seafood in Lisbon. A well-heeled crowd frequent this place for its impeccable service and seafood delicacies, including an unforgettable shellfish bisque and delicious steamed clams. Be prepared to book in advance.

This Lisbon classic first opened in 1936, and inside you’ll find an old-world European restaurant frozen in the mid 1960s. Gambrinus has a sit-down restaurant, but many prefer the bar where you can stop for a croquette with mustard. 📍Baixa – Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 23⏱️Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

A true classic of Lisbon’s dining scene, Gambrinus offers a very different experience than most restaurants do along the uber popular street of Portas de Santo Antão. Gambrinus first opened in 1936 as a charcuterie. It afterwards became a beer house and, only after, a proper restaurant.

Gambrinus (Lisbon – $$): In a street crowded with bad restaurants, Gambrinus almost goes unnoticed. An old Lisbon classic, it seems awkwardly out of time with its wood paneled walls and red carpets. The food is old-fashioned, but still very good.

This timeless restaurant is one of the oldest and most well-known houses in Lisbon. The service is highly professional, in every sense. They’re professionals in serving, but also in selling.