The txakoli is Bilbao’s answer to the San Sebastián cider house, a revered eating place that combines an abundant flow of the Basque white wine, typically made on the grounds, with rustic, down-to-earth cooking. Txakoli Simon is Bilbao’s favourite, as much for the beautiful views from its perch atop Monte Artxanda as for the food. Al fresco dining is considerably more informal than the dining room, and a giant Basque steak never tastes better than at one of the communal tables, served smoking on a charcoal grill.

The txuleta at Txakoli Simon was highly recommended to me by a trusted acquaintance, but I couldn’t get a booking even calling two weeks in advance. Next time, I’ll try booking a month ahead. I would also love to check out some of the places names to the 2023 50 Best Restaurants in the World list: Asador Etxebarri, Mugaritz and Elkano are all located near Bilbao or San Sebastián.

Grilled meat is served at Txakoli Simón, a time-tested local favorite nestled in the hills overlooking Bilboa, Spain.Credit...Gianfranco Tripodo for The New York Times

The Bizkaian answer to a ciderhouse, a txakoli is a well-loved establishment, historically a country home that produced wine and served it along with food from the garden and pantry. Nowadays, it often refers to spots that combine a few Basque staples: outdoor eating, grilled seasonal foods, a get-your-elbows-on-the-table-and-eat group mentality, and txakoli, that sometimes salty hay-colored white wine that goes down too easily. First, relax with the sun on your face and sip from a cold bottle of local txakoli, looking over the urban blocks that used to produce 10,000 liters of the wine yearly.

Just a few kilometers from where I grew up,” said Mr. Garrido, nestled in the hills overlooking Bilbao, Txakoli Simón is a time-tested local favourite. “Here, you eat simple and traditional dishes, such as fried eggs with red pepper, tansy, and excellent quality T-Bone steak.” Their steak, or txuleta, is from Galician cattle and is considered by some to be the best in Bilbao – no small feat for a region that prides itself on its barbecue culture.

For those who want to eat well and, at the same time, be in touch with nature, this restaurant offers the option of having lunch on one of its wooden tables under the trees. However, if the weather has other ideas, there are interior rooms where you can try bacalao a la vizcaína (Biscay-style cod) or some of its chargrilled meat.

Txakoli Simón, on Camino San Roque, 89, is another traditional venue that never disappoints. Another interesting option is the Asador Indusi, on Calle Maestro García Rivero, 7.

Description: informal restaurant in the hills, meat served on disposable grills at the tables. Speciality: chuleta (steak). Average price: from €30.00 per person