After a café cortado at Hemingway’s favorite hangout, the historic Café Iruña on the grand main square, we headed off to La Nuez at what we thought was a fashionable Spanish lunch hour, 2 p.m.—only to find ourselves the sole customers. But this gave us a chance to study the menu, and as the space filled with chatting locals, we ate stewed artichokes, white asparagus in a mousseline sauce, and a deconstructed Niçoise salad of Basque tuna, accompanied by a bottle of dry Verdejo from Rueda.

Health and safety concerns are near non-existent: there have been over two hundred gorings and several fatalities since 1924, when Ernest Hemingway’s novel, The Sun Also Rises, set the festival on the world stage. The atmosphere of that book – a young international crowd mixing with locals in one wild night after another fuelled by home-made red wine and the intoxication of the bullfights – is pretty much still what you’ll get today. The difference is the attitude to animal welfare: back then no one complained about the bulls’ inevitable death.

Tucked away in the heart of Pamplona's bustling streets, Bar Hemingway awaits its visitors with an air of debonair sophistication and a hint of unapologetic nostalgia. Its timeless allure and exquisite libations have become something of a pilgrimage for those seeking respite from the chaotic, bullfighting-fueled escapades of this vibrant city. Sip on their legendary "Hemingway Special" cocktail, and allow the mischievous spirits of a forgotten era to whisper tales of long-gone exploits into your willing ears.

In fact, just next to the café there is a section devoted to the famous writer called Hemingway Corner that you can visit on prior request. This spot is a tranquil place in the old quarter of the city and is perfect if you want a quiet place to relax, just as Hemingway did all those years ago. The Café Iruña pays their own homage to Ernest Hemingway with a large bronze bust of the writer which can be found at the end of the bar.

Navarra gained international fame in part due to Ernest Hemingway’s novel The Sun Also Rises. The writer was a fan of Spanish culture, particularly the vibrant fiestas, thrilling bullfights, and renowned Spanish wines of La Rioja. His portrayal of the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, along with the region’s rich traditions, captured the imagination of readers worldwide and contributed to the global allure of Navarra.

The legendary American author, who documented his Pamplona experiences in his novel 'The Sun Also Rises', fell in love with Pamplona and its bars, most of which are still there today in the main square, enabling us to relive his drunken adventures. Here are the top bars to drink where Hemingway drank in Pamplona. Plaza del Castillo in Pamplona