The only way you can go wrong at Lao Laan-Xang is by skipping the curry squash—it’s made from three types of squash and cooked in a mix of coconut milk and spices until completely tender. While that dish is as comforting as a hug from Meryl Streep, tack on some khao tod nam som lettuce wraps, which are another menu standout. The restaurant has been around since 1990, and recently its two locations merged into a single spot on Atwood Avenue.

This institution was Madison’s first Laotian restaurant when it opened back in 1990, and it’s still a local favorite. Christine Inthachith and her mother, Bounyong, opened Lao Laan-Xang to share the flavors of their home city, Luang Prabang, which you’ll find in dishes like the squash curry (four different kinds of squash, Thai eggplant, and basil) and moak pa, catfish steamed in banana leaves.

Over the course of its 25 years of service, the Williamson Street location of Lao Laan-Xang has tickled the palates of plenty: out-of-town relatives, New York Times food critics, and most important of all, its loyal Madison diners. The restaurant’s cozy dining room has been the stage for countless love stories—from first dates all the way to marriage proposals—including owner Christine Inthachith’s own engagement. Having become such an integral part of many Madisonians’ lives, both its owners and its patrons are sad to see such a culinary powerhouse go.

My first call was to a highly recommended Lao restaurant, Lao Laan Xang—but as luck would have it they’d closed that day due to a kitchen malfunction. I then tried to order Vietnamese food from the also highly recommended Ha Long Bay, but despite calling non-stop for 45 minutes I was not able to get through (they do not have online ordering). And so we decided to go for the unlikely choice of picking up sushi to eat in our hotel room.

Another Madison standby for several decades, Lao Laan-Xang serves up dependable Laotian cuisine that will make any diner happy. Choose tofu as an alternative to meat in any of the dishes, most of which are bursting with vegetables and flavor from herbs and seasonings. There are so many good curry dishes here, all of which can be made vegan.

Then get on the phone NOW and call Lao Laan Xang on Atwood!. I literally can’t stop ordering their Pineapple Curry, which is an awesome combination of spicy curry sauce and sweet from the tangy pineapple. No matter what you order, however, don’t forget to add an order of fresh spring rolls (we love the tofu).

Squash curry is duly worshiped on the near-east side, as its lucky residents live within easy distance of both Lao Laan-Xang locations. It's time to share the love. This is a great dish for people who think they don't like Southeast Asian food (as well as those who admit to a passion for it).

Lao Laan Xang, at 1146 Williamson St. serves Asian food with a Laotian flavor. Madison’s most interesting curry dish IMHO is their Gang Galli, with elements of Thai, Vietnamese, and Indonesian cooking coming together in one dish.

Pho can be found on the lunch menu at Lao Laan-Xang from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday through Friday. The lunch special comes with an egg roll or cucumber salad for less than $10, so it’s a pho worth checking out for price alone.

- Rating: 4.5 / 5 (37 reviews)- Detailed ratings: Food (4.5/5), Service (4.5/5), Value (4.5/5)- Type of cuisine: Asian- Price: $$ - $$$- Address: 2089 Atwood Ave, Madison, WI 53704-5353- Read more on Tripadvisor

For a real treat, try the authentic Laotian food at family-owned Lao Laan-Xang. There are many other spots with incredible food from other Asian cuisines, you’re bound to find whatever flavors you crave.

Lao Laan Xang is just really god damn good southeast asian food. Curry squash is the go to for me and their most popular item but they have a huge menu if you're more adventurous.

Lao Laan Xang serves up traditional Laotian fare, whereas Monty’s Blue Plate Diner is the place for great comfort food. All three have vegan and vegetarian options, too.