The menu at this unassuming picanteria (restaurant specializing in spicy foods) has everything from trout to rabbit, but llama or quinoa are the dishes to try: give them a go as an empanada starter. Less adventurous eaters can sample one of the pasta dishes. Named after an Andean god, Viracocha has helpful staff, and the atmosphere amid the yellow walls and arches is happily relaxed.

After seeing the city from the heights in the cable car, we continue towards the well-known Balcarce street, but beforehand we make a stop to try one of the richest desserts in Salta in Viracocha. To get here we take the avenue that we have near the exit of the cable car (Av. Hipolito Yrigoyen) we walk about six blocks until we take Güemes avenue to the left and we turn right again in Vicente Lópe, where we will see about 30 meters the restaurant.

Though this restaurant may not look appealing on the outside, it is one of the best places in Jujuy to taste local dishes. Its main specialities are llama meat, lamb, empanadas, humitas (which are made with steamed corn dough and wrapped in a corn husk) and tamales (which are like humitas, but filled with meat).

When you tire of steak (if you ever do), try Viracocha or Jose Balcarce, which offers Peruvian and Andean cuisine. Near the railway station is Balcarce street, which is still the best place to enjoy a traditional folk music peña.

Viracocha Restaurant was our favourite with the menu of the day costing 150 pesos ($10). It includes a starter, juice, appetizer and a main course. It’s big enough to share with 2 people.

And don’t forget to have lunch at Viracocha – we were advised to do so by a local – and chill out in the shade of the garden.