"Ratnagiri Buddhist Archaeological Site – Odisha

Once the principle centre of Buddhism in Odisha, the superb Ratnagiri Buddhist Archaeological Site is located on a hill between the Brahmani and Birupa rivers, 100 km north-east of Bhubaneswar.

Together with Udayagiri and Lalitagiri, Ratnagiri completes a set of Buddhist centres in Odisha commonly known as the Diamond Triangle. All these sites have yet to be completely excavated, and with more than 200 Buddhist sites in Odisha alone I suspect the discovery of new sites is only a matter of time.

Buddhism flourished at Ratnagiri from the 5th century until the 12th century A.D, after which a slow decline culminated in the site being abandoned and becoming a ruin by the 16th century.

Very little was known about Ratnagiri until the 1960s, when major archaeological excavations were conducted by the ASI. Large quantities of extremely fine sculpture were uncovered, often considered the finest in terms of carved stone decoration to have survived anywhere in India. Many of these carvings have been removed to other museums across India, although a museum adjacent to the site houses some fine examples, as well as some examples still remaining broadly where they were unearthed.

The monuments that can be seen today at Ratnagiri consist of separate groups of stupas and monasteries connected by other smaller stupas and temples. My description below is likely to be the route you take through the site, click on any of the images to view them in a larger format.

Votive Stupas

Having paid the entrance fee, a short climb up the hill will take you to the first set of monuments, a collection of votive stupas that I imagine have been recovered from nearby and organised into orderly lines.

A barbed wire fence around the stupas prevents anyone from examining them in closer detail, which is a bit of a shame but perhaps this has been done in an attempt to protect them a little more.

These stupas are usually to commemorate visits by pilgrims or to gain spiritual benefits by those more closely associated with the monastery. They are almost always found at sites of prominent stupas which were regularly visited.

Monastery 1

This is the largest and best preserved structure at the site that had at least two storeys although only the ground floor remains today. The main entrance is heralded by a wonderful elaborately carved chlorite doorway, often described as the loveliest entrance to a structural monastery in the whole of India.

The carvings on the doorway have delicate lotus ornaments with intricate scroll-work. Guardian figures are positioned beneath, with Lakshmi in the middle of the lintel.

The contrast of the bright green-blue Chlorite against the orange sandstone outer wall is stark, a memory that I know will stay with me forevermore.

Around the entrance are a number of large relief panels of standing figures, there were once many more here but they have since been removed elsewhere.

Having entered the monastery proper, be on the look out for a series of wonderfully carved Buddha heads lined up against the north-facing inner wall. To be fair, you’re hardly going to miss them, they are simply amazing.

Unusually, almost the entire ground floor of the monastery remains intact, there are even stairs leading up to the now missing upper floors. 24 cells still survive, the size of which perhaps suggests that they were occupied by more than one monk.

Monastery 2

Separated by a narrow passageway, Monastery 2 is immediately west of Monastery 1, is much smaller in size, and only has a ground floor.

Main Stupa

Situated on the highest point of the site, it’s a short walk from Monastery 2 up to the 9th century brick built main stupa.

Mahakala Temple

Further on beyond the main stupa a little way down the slope of the hill is the 15th century Mahakala Temple. This temple was originally built over the top of an earlier Buddhist stupa, and was relocated to the side of the site by the ASI between 1997 and 2004.

Monastery 3

Monastery 3 is located at the far north of the site."

Bal Bijay Gopal

"Such a beautiful place. You can see the Buddhists culture and history very clearly in this place."

Satyajit Swain

"Peaceful! Serene ! A must visit for history lovers!. The site houses remnants of the 6-7th century Buddhist monasteries!

ASI has done a fabulous job of restoring some of them. The name - ‘Ratnagiri’ - Hill of Jewels does justice to this site!"

TILAK NAYAK